Prince Edward Island, or PEI, is renowned for its picturesque landscapes of rolling farmlands, red sandstone cliffs and tranquil shores all of which serve as the backdrop of some of my most treasured books. Anne of Green Gables, and the subsequent Anne series and spin offs are the much-loved work of Lucy Maud Montgomery, and these cherished novels have resonated with readers across the world for generations.
First published in 1908, readers were introduced to the spirited Anne Shirley, an orphan in possession of an imagination most of us can only dream. Through a series of miscommunications, she finds a home at Green Gables, under the care and instruction of the stern Marilla Cuthbert and her gentle, quiet brother Matthew. The novel’s success not only catapulted Montgomery to international fame but also brought global attention to PEI, transforming it into a literary pilgrimage site. Since I was a child I have wanted to wander the fields, run to the shores and take a stroll down Lover’s Lane. I can tell you, giving your younger self these gifts is healing.
PEI is about as far away from my home in Melbourne as I could get. The route was long; an 18 hour flight to Vancouver, via Fiji, followed by two days rail journey (on board the iconic Rocky Mountaineer!) to Banff, a few hours drive to Calgary then a 6 hour flight to Quebec City, before driving almost 10 hours to PEI. Possibly the most insane way of getting there, but that’s what I did. And I dragged my poor partner along for the ride. The moment we crossed the Confederation Bridge and I saw the welcome sign I burst into tears of complete and utter joy. I had arrived, I was going to be able to tell Maud exactly what Anne meant to me.
My Anne of Green Gables itinerary had been planned for the end of the summer season, in fact we arrived exactly the same week everything on the Island was starting to close up for the winter. I knew the risks though, and once we finally arrived we had no time to waste.
DAY 1: CHARLOTTETOWN & SURROUNDS
In the books, Charlottetown features as a far off, bustling city where Anne visits Mrs Josephine Barry and goes to study at the Queen’s Academy. So this is a natural starting place for any Anne-girl. Start with a visit to the Confederation Centre of the Arts, followed by a stroll along Victoria Row.
Take a short drive to North Rustico, a charming fishing village nearby, where you can stroll the boardwalk or explore the Prince Edward Island National Park and it’s sandy beaches. Pop into the Tides & Tales Bookshope & Cafe for a coffee and a snack, and maybe a browse of the shelves. For dinner, I highly recommend the seafood chowder at Blue Mussel Cafe.
DAY 2: CAVENDISH & ANNE OF GREEN GABLES
Your visit to the Green Gables Heritage Place will take up most of the morning. Take your time here, this is the main event. When you first enter, there is a small but modern museum space to find out more about Lucy Maud Montgomery’s life, the Anne books, and how far they’ve travelled to touch the hearts of readers. Outside and through the stables, there’s Green Gables itself, the home once belonging to Maud’s cousins. Maud never lived at Green Gables, but she did spend her youth nearby living with her grandparents and she was a frequent visitor. The paths she trod through the woodlands subsequently appear in the Anne books; let me tell you nothing gave me more thrills than a walk through the Haunted Wood and a stroll along Lover’s Lane.
Stop for lunch in Cavendish, the real life inspiration for the village of Avonlea where Anne comes to live with Marilla and Matthew Cuthbert. Samuel’s Coffee House is serving up yummy baked treats and pretty good coffee. Cavendish is tiny, really just an intersection but you’ll need to know what to look for here.
On one corner there is Montgomery Park, where you’ll be able to pay your respects to Maud at her gravesite. On the opposite corner stands a white church, and a post office. They don’t look like much of anything, but if you know Maud you’ll know this is the post office she worked in as a young woman.
Originally, the Cavendish post office ran out of the kitchen of Maud’s Cavendish home where she lived with her maternal grandparents after the death of her mother. If not for this kitchen post office, Anne might never have been published. Maud would send off manuscripts in secret to magazines and publishers, to get her short fiction, essays and novels published. You can visit the site of the original home, where the foundations are still standing, and there is a well-stocked bookstore and small museum. While you’re at this museum, buy yourself a postcard. Trust me.
The church is also significant for Maud’s life, this is the church she attended every Sunday and where she met her husband, Ewan Macdonald. Maud was the organist from 1903-1911, and her funeral was held here in 1942.
While you’re here, pop into the post office that Maud worked in, and post that postcard home to yourself. It’s the only post office in Canada that used the Anne poststamp.
From here, head to the Birthplace of LM Montgomery, a small house in the village of Clifton, brightly painted in yellow and overlooking the sandy dunes Maud loved so much. The house is small but they have kept it true to the time Maud would have lived here, although she was just a tiny child. There are any number of interesting things on display, including large collections of Maud’s notebooks, scrapbooks and a replica of her wedding dress.
Finally, you’ll want to drive about ten minutes to the Anne of Green Gables Museum which is located in the home of Maud’s aunt and uncle and still owned by the Campbell family today. The real fans will spot the blue chest from the Story Girl, a book based on true stories of Maud’s life. Maud spent many years of her youth staying with her aunt and uncle in this home, and from one of the bedroom windows you can spot the Lake of Shining Waters that features so prominently in the Anne books.
DAY 3: THE NORTH SHORE
See another side of PEI today with a drive along the north shore. Stop in at the iconic Point Prim Lighthouse and Cape Bear Lighthouse, before stopping for lunch in the quaint town of Souris. Dip your toes in the Atlantic Ocean and explore the Basin Head Provincial Park. There would be no better way to finish your time in PEI than a lavish lobster dinner from North Lake Boathouse Eatery.
Maud loved PEI with her whole heart, and this love sings through her writing, not just in the Anne books but through her other novels, short fiction and essays. Whether you’re a lifelong Maud fan or new to Anne’s story, these locations bring her world to life in a way that is both enchanting and deeply personal. Exploring these sites is not just a journey through literature, but a chance to experience the charm and beauty of Prince Edward Island itself.
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